[SS] “Overall, Harrington’s too conservative for your temperament, but you might still appreciate his ideas about M”,1 Stan the Stat continued, specifically addressing Joey the Juvenile.
[SS] “His basic theory is that in tournaments when your M is high, you can sit around and wait for good hands. But when your M is low, you need to get busy. When your M is really low, you need to move all-in as soon as a decent opportunity arises.”
[JJ] “Makes sense”, Joey confirmed.
[SS] “To make it easier to remember and discuss, he assigns colors to the M ranges:”
|20+||Green||No special strategy needed. Play your normal game.|
|10.0-19.9||Yellow||Play looser and more aggressive. Small pairs and suited connectors are less playable.|
|6.0-9.9||Orange||Be even looser and more aggressive. Be the first raiser if possible.|
|1.0-5.9||Red||Fold or move all-in, preferably as the first one into the pot.|
|0.0-0.9||Dead||Avoid! The only time you should be here is if you lost an all-in to a player with slightly fewer chips.|
[SS] “It would have been better if he had used ‘black’ for ‘dead’, but that range isn’t important anyway. Can you remember all this?”
[JJ] “Sure. I basically just need to know three numbers: 20, 10, and 6. Easy enough.”
[SS] “Right. 20+ is green, and a green light means go. 10+ is yellow, which real Boston2 drivers know means hit the gas to get through the intersection.3 And 6+ is orange, like a big hazard sign warning ‘Road Work Next 5 Miles’.”
- See previous article, M and Q for the definition and calculation of M.
- Dan Harrington was born and raised in Cambridge and graduated from MIT and Suffolk Law School.
- I’ve lived here over half my life, but you can learn the finer points of Boston driving more safely through the The Boston Driver’s Handbook: Wild in the Streets–The Almost Post Big Dig Edition.